News:Argos:How Hvar got hip

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Stylish hotels have never been Croatia's strong point but one island has given its accommodation a radical makeover. Annabelle Thorpe reports

Strolling into Hvar Town in the late afternoon sunshine, for a moment I feel as though I have arrived in the middle of a tourist board photo shoot. It looks too brochure-perfect; the polished cobbles of the piazza gleam in the rich sunlight, chisel-jawed yachting types and blondes in skimpy frocks curl up on rattan sofas beneath pristine white parasols, sipping cold beers and caipirinhas that come with neat heaps of roasted almonds and a Café del Mar soundtrack. A cluster of terracotta-roofed houses clambers up the hillside behind the harbour, opposite a glittering sea stretching out to some hazily blue islands.

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